Although I
visited 12 cities in nine days, this trip was by no means glamorous. It was
actually very tiring because most of the time I slept on buses or in bus
stations. I only stayed in a hostel when I had to. Nevertheless, it was lots of
fun, and it was the longest trip I’ve ever been on.
Day 1 – En Route
+ Serqipe
I left home
at 7:30 on a Friday evening. I was about to get to the first city at around
4:00 a.m. However, I fell asleep and missed my flight. I had to catch another
one, but it wasn’t direct. I went through the airports of Salvador
and Brasília before I got to Aracaju
in the afternoon. I had the choice of seeing either Aracaju or São Cristóvão in the day. I picked
the latter because it’s a World Heritage Site. I still got to see the former in
the evening. The bus to the next city was just after midnight. I had three
hours, so I started reading the magazine I got from the plane. To my surprise,
I knew the person on the cover. It was none other than Alex Atala, chef of the
fourth best restaurant in the world. I had met him three days before when I ate
at his restaurant. Anyway, I went to my bus and slept almost the whole way. I
got to Maceió at around 5:30 although the trip seemed longer. I was still a bit
sad that I wouldn’t see my students again.
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Convento de São Francisco e Igreja do Bom Jesus da Glória (Museu de Arte Sacra) na Praça São Francisco | |
Day 2 – Maceió
I decided to start with a walk on the beach (romantic, right?) and come back
through the city centre. There were many historic buildings and churches, but
75% of them desperately needed restoration. I got to the famous beach and it
was pretty cool. I tried something new for dinner: Sururu (Mussels broth), and
I watched the second half of the Euro Cup final. Again, my bus to the next city
was around midnight, so I went to the bus station and slept until then.
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Praça Marechal Floriano Peixoto |
Day 3 –
Pernambuco
I got to Recife
at 6:00 a.m. I put my bag at the hostel and went straight to Porto de Galinhas
(Port of Chickens), a famous beach nearby. I got
back to Recife
in the afternoon and I was able to see some of the downtown. The hostel was
really nice and I met some of the people there. Earlier that day, I put my
phone on the charger…in the bathroom (bad idea). That night, I found out that
it had drowned. I was more upset about not having a phone than losing that
particular phone.
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Porto de Galinhas |
Day 4 –
More Pernambuco
After having a delicious breakfast, I went to Olinda, another World Heritage Site. Then I
had lunch with ex-President of AIESEC Canada Vito!
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With Vito |
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Then I went to thhe downtown
to continue my tour. I asked a guy to take a picture of me and he ended up
being my personal photographer. I got him some juice to be courteous and we
parted ways.
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Associação Comercial |
I walked around a bit more and all of a sudden, all the buses
stopped and people started protesting. I thought to myself I’ll take the metro,
but everyone thought so too, naturally. It was a stampede, and I had to catch
my bus to the next city. I took a taxi, but there was traffic on the streets
too. By the time I reached the hostel, the protests had ended. I took the bus
to the metro. I wasn’t going to make it, but at that point, I had been in Brazil
long enough to know that buses and planes usually leave late. I was right, and
although I was ten minutes late, the bus didn’t leave until another ten
minutes. I got to João Pessoa
at night and started looking for a hostel. I had an address, but it was too
far. I asked the taxi drivers and they sent me to one which was nearby. The
price was incredibly cheap ($7), but as I stepped into the room, I knew why. It
stank of mould and everything was old. It was the shittiest hostel I’ve ever
been in. Never mind hostel, the shittiest building I’ve ever had the misfortune
of being in. You get what you pay for, right? On the bright side (not so
bright, though), I had the room all for myself, there was a double bed, a TV, a
fan, a table and chairs. Oh, and there was room service too! It’s funny how
they had all that but not the basics: cleanliness and quality. Then I thought I
heard some people having sex in the other room. I went to investigate, but then
I figured it was some guy watching porn (yes, the TVs had porn).
Day 5 - João Pessoa
After
rotting in the room for about eight hours, I had a cold shower and went
sightseeing. It was very easy to see everything because I had a map, and there
were signs everywhere. Then I went to the most Easterly point in the Americas.
I met someone who drove me around a little. I walked around and saw the beach
and other things. Then I had an all-you-can-eat buffet (including churrasco)
for $13 only. I had to ask the waiter several times just to check. It was
actually a really good restaurant, but it was cheap. That night, I went to Natal.
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Praça Antenor Navarro |
Day 6 – Natal
I woke up and went straight the beach. The hostel was so close that I managed
to go to the beach, come back and take a shower before checkout. It was such a
beautiful beach! It was about 25° but the water wasn’t cold. The golden sands
reflected the rays of sunlight, and the water was very clean. There were no
waves, no pebbles in the sand and a backdrop of hills and sand dunes. It was
paradise. At the hostel, I just rested for a few hours. I had been walking all
day for five days, and getting a bad night’s sleep, so I needed it. Then it
started raining. Regardless, I went to see a sand dune park, but it was closed
because of the rain. Scumbag Zeus strikes again. I still went to see the biggest
cashew tree in the world. It was like a little forest. Then I took the bus at
night.
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Praia de Ponta Negra |
Day 7 – Fortaleza
I arrived
in the morning. There was no tourist information, so I just hopped on a bus. It
took me a while to get to the downtown. I was right beside it, but I managed to
waste an hour with my bus detour. I asked around and managed to get a map.
There was quite a bit to see, but I managed. All in a day’s work. I ended up on
the beach and watched the beautiful sunset there. There was a handcrafts market
and people doing all sorts of things.
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Ponte dos Ingleses |
Day 8 – Teresina
I did not
plan to come here in the first place. I had planned on going to another city in
that state, but it turned out to be too far. Therefore, as usual, I went to the
downtown and walked around. There was no tourist information but I followed the
signs. I ended up having a nice day. I also went to a floating restaurant where
two rivers meet. I went there by Moto taxi. Just as the name suggests, it’s a
taxi using a motorcycle. It’s cheaper and kind of fun. Incidentally, this is
the only capital in the Northeast which is not on the coast.
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Igreja de São Benedito |
Day 9 – Maranhão
I got to São Luís very early in the morning and I went on a bus to Barreirinhas.
I had a few hours before the next bus to Lençóis Maranhenses. Instead of
exploring the town, I decided to go on 9gag the whole time. I laughed a lot, so
it was worth it. The main attraction was Lençóis Maranhenses. This place has
little lakes within a desert. The sand is so pure that you would think you’re
in the Sahara. There were barely any plants or
rocks, just sand and lakes. It was unlike anything else I’ve seen.
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Lençóis Maranhenses |
Day 10 - São
Luís
I got here
the night before and went to a hostel. It turned out that they had no spots, so
I was told to go to a hotel. It was actually very late, and I wasn’t about to
get robbed on one of my last days in Brazil. So I jogged to the hotel
and it turned out to be ok. A beggar followed me into the hotel, and she made
it look like she was with me. Anyway, it turned out to be cheap, and it was a
pretty good hotel. The building had this old charm to it. The next day, I set
out for what would be my last sightseeing adventure in a new Brazilian city. São
Luís is the only capital founded by the French. In the downtown, there are
about 300+ old buildings. I think that it is potentially one of the best cities
to visit in Brazil.
Emphasis on potentially. Although it is a World Heritage Site, 90% of the
buildings have not been restored, and the downtown is left for the poor and
homeless. This is a trend in the Northeast, but I don’t understand. Usually,
countries take care the most of the downtown or the oldest part of the city. In
Brazil,
they are indifferent. Even in São
Paulo, the downtown is not the fanciest place.
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Feira da Praia Grande |
I got back
to São Paulo
that night. It was great to be home, finally, and to use a proper shower and
bed.